fixed oils. carrier oils. base oils

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Fixed Oils (also known as carrier oils, base oils, or vegetable oils)

There are a lot of different oils to be extracted from seeds and nuts, some more popular than others, each having different properties and uses. These oils come from all over the world.

Following is a list of fixed oils:

Almond Oil (Sweet) Prunus amygdalus, P. dulcis
Sweet almond oil is obtained from the nut of the tree, which is native to Asia and the Mediterranean. This oil is a favorite aromatherapy carrier oil for essential oil aromatherapy blends, although it’s often used by itself for moisturizing skin. The oil has no scent and is a great nutrient for softening and conditioning the skin. It's been known to be especially suitable for eczema, itchy, dry and inflamed skin. It’s very lubricating but not very penetrating. Since it contains glucosides, vitamins and minerals, it makes a fabulous massage oil. It’s widely used in lotions, lotion bars, balms and soap. Sweet almond oil saponifies easily and produces a mild soap with very good lather. This oil can be used as a large percentage of the fats or as an oil added at trace. It’s recommended that you add just one ounce per pound of fats to the soap batch. It goes rancid quickly. Should be stored in a cool place or refrigerated. SAP value: 192.5.

Aloe Vera. Aloe barbadensis miller
Although Aloe Vera is a member of the Lily family, it is very-cactus like in its characteristics. Aloe vera is used in creams and lotions. It’s a well known healing and soothing agent for damaged, dry skin. It is soothing and healing for burns, skin irritations, and raw open wounds

Amaranth Oil
This oil is mainly used in foods, cosmetics, and shampoos. It has a distinct delicate flavor in foods.

Apricot Oil Armeniaca vulgaris, Prunis armeniaca
Apricot Kernel is a light but rich oil which is especially good for sensitive skin, as well as for and skin that is inflamed or dry. It can be used alone or in massage and is used quite often in lip balms and creams. It is particularly helpful for dehydrated, delicate, mature or sensitive skin. It has a high vitamin A content. For soapmaking, one should use one or two ounces for every pound of fat. It is normally used at 15%-50% strength, although it may be used full strength. SAP value: 190.0

Argan Oil Argania spinosa.
This oil’s high content in oleic acid makes this it particularly interesting in the regulation of blood cholesterol. Some studies are being done and it seems that 2 Tbsp per day of this oil during a month could considerably lower cholesterol levels. One of it’s food uses is making bread dips. It is also used as a treatment for skin diseases
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Avocado Oil Persea americana, Persea gratissima
Avocado oil nourishes and restores dry, dehydrated, and mature skin. It is a rich, heavy oil that is best blended with other carrier oils. Skin problems, especially eczema and psoriasis, respond to its high content of vitamins A and E. Avocado oil is added to carrier oils, in a 10%-20% dilution, as an aid to skin moisturizing. This is a highly therapeutic oil which is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, vitamins D and E, protein, pantothenic acid, and fatty acids. May be used as a massage oil at approximately 10% dilution. This is a nice oil to use in soap because it has a high percentage of unsaponifiables. Avocado oil should be kept in a cool place or refrigerated; has an excellent shelf life. SAP value: 187.5. INCI: Persea gratissima (avocado) oil.

Babassu Oil
This oil comes from the Amazon region of Brazil. It is used in the food, cleaning and cosmetic industries. Babassu is a moisturizer for both dry and oily complexions – it does not contribute to an oily appearance.

Ben Oil
Ben Oil is from the Ben Oil Tree. This oil is primarily used as a perfume base.

Borage Oil Borago officinalis
Borage seed oil is clear and slightly thick with very little odor. It contains an abundance of gamma linoleic acid (GLA), an essential fatty acid that the body uses to manufacture prostaglandins–hormone like substances that balance and regulate cellular activity. It reduces the aging process of the skin and reverses damage from ultraviolet rays. This oil is used to treat PMS, endometriosis, and menopausal discomforts, as well as for psoriasis and eczema. It may be used at a 10%-15% dilution rate. SAP value: 188.0.

Camelina Oil Camelina sativa
This oil is also known as false flax or gold-of-pleasure and is high in Omega-3 linolenic acid. Records of plant cultivation date back as far as the Iron Age as the oil was used as a source of fuel as well as a skin moisturizer. Research shows that Camelina oil has good skin softening properties. It is emollient, has good spreading properties, provides lubricity in both hair and skin preparations, and improves skin elasticity. Camelina oil can be used as a replacement for sperm whale oil in lipsticks and other solid products. SAP value: 187.0.

Candlenut Oil
Candlenut oil originates in Hawaii. It is used as a skin moisturizer.

Canola Oil/Rapeseed
This oil’s main use is in cooking.

Cashew Oil Anacardium occidentale
This oil is similar to olive oil. Mostly used in cooking

Castor Oil Ricinus communis L.
This oil, derived from the castor bean and obtained by cold pressure, is rich in fatty acids and very moisturizing and lubricating to the skin in general. It acts as a humectant, attracting moisture to the skin. Castor oil packs applied with warm flannel are believed effective for pain relief and to "draw out" cysts, boils and warts. Ayurvedic medicine has long used castor oil for lumbago, sciatica and rheumatism. In the Canary Islands the oil is used to prevent sore nipples in nursing mothers and is also rubbed onto their scalps to prevent post natal hair loss. Turkey-red oil (sulfated castor oil, which we don't offer at this time) is water soluble and may be used as a base for essential oil baths and it will disperse in the water and not leave an oily ring around the bath. In soapmaking, although castor oil would appear to require less sodium hydroxide, it sometimes requires more due to its high ricinoleic acid content. It’s also a well- known superfatting agent and well suited for shampoo bars and skin-care products. Without other oils, it produces a transparent soft soap. In combination with over vegetable oils, however, it makes a wonderfully emollient, hard bar of soap. SAP value: 180.3.

Coconut Oil (76° ) Cocos nucifera
Coconut oil is obtained from copra, the dried "meat" of coconut. Distillers separate the copra from the hull of the coconut. It is dried, crushed, and then expressed to remove the oil. This coconut becomes a liquid at 76 degrees. It is semi-liquid at room temperature. A percentage of coconut oil in cosmetics is moisturizing; too much of it can be drying. Its saturated nature resists rancidity and makes a very hard soap, while at the same time producing a fluffy lather. Soapmakers usually combine coconut oil with olive, palm, palm kernel or castor oils for an all-vegetable soap. Some soapmakers use between 20% and 30% of a soap batch as coconut oil. SAP value: 268.0.

Cornseed Oil
Cornseed oil is extracted from corn. Corn seed’s primary use is in cooking.

Cottonseed Oil
Cottenseed oil from the seeds of the cotton plant after the lint has been removed. It’s main use is in cooking.

Evening Primrose Oil Oenothera biennis
This is a pale yellow oil with a pleasant, light and nutty taste. Extremely helpful in treating menstrual and pre-menstrual problems, eczema and psoriasis. It’s useful in treating allergic skin problems; add up to 10% of the carrier oil for massage and to any creams and lotions. It's healing action results from its high content of gamma linolenic acid (GLA), an essential fatty acid that is vital to cell and body functions and not produced by the body itself. It goes rancid quickly and should be stored in a cool place or refrigerated. In soapmaking, a little goes a long way; add 1-2/3 tablespoons per 5 lbs. of soap just before adding the essential oils. SAP value: 191.0.

Flaxseed Oil/Linseed Oil
Flax seeds are a rich source of alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) an the Omega-3 series of essential fatty acids. Topical use of flax seed oil allows the body to absorb some of the essential fatty acids necessary for healthy cellular activity. Flax seed oil can help soften and heal skin abrasions, reduce the swelling and redness of lesions due to skin disease and improve the overall health of the skin. Use flax seed oil in creams, lotions and balm formulations.

Foraha (aka tamanu, kamanu and Alexandrian laurel) Calophyllum inophyllum,
This beautiful cold pressed oil is rich and thick, with a delicate nutty or honey-spice aroma. The color of this oil will vary from vendor to vendor, we have offered very dark green Foraha and we have offered Foraha of an amber color. It stimulates cell regeneration and is good for fragile or broken capillaries. Foraha is a traditional medicine in the So. Pacific, where it is used for its analgesic, antiinflammatory and cicatrizant properties. Formerly, foraha was used to treat leprosy. It helps wounds to heal and is soothing for eczema and skin irritations such as burns, rashes and insect bites. It is used as an aid for relieving pain, healing wounds, herpes lesions and post-surgical scars. A combination of foraha and Ravensara aromatica essential oil has been used successfully as a treatment for shingles. Rarely used as a carrier oil due to its quite thick in consistency, but may be part of a blend with other carrier oils. It’s highly recommended as a facial oil, either alone or with essential oils added.

Grapeseed Oil Vitis vinifera
Grapeseed Oil is an ecologically sound product that is made from the seeds of grapes after the wine is pressed. Grapeseed oil is high in vitamin E and is 76% essential fatty acid, linoleic acid (also known as Omega 6). It is low in saturated fat, contains natural chlorophyll and valuable antioxidants (known as proanthocyninidins), and has a good shelf life. Very rich in vitamins, minerals and linoleic acid. Grapeseed oil is a light and penetrating oil for massage. It’s also used in lotions, balms, creams, and soap. The skin absorbs it easily; it has no perceptible odor. Since it is slightly astringent, it tightens and tones the skin. Will not aggravate acne. This is one oil that is nearly impossible to extract through cold pressure due to its very low oil yield

Hazelnut Oil Corylus avellana
Hazelnuts yield a pale amber oil with a pleasant aroma. Its composition is similar to almond oil for which it’s often substituted. This is the only fixed nut oil with an astringent quality, making it beneficial for use on oily skin. It absorbs quickly and is useful as a base for oily or acne-prone skins. It may be useful against thread veins and has been used internally in cases of urinary stones, kidney colic and tapeworms. May be used full strength or in 10%-15% dilution. This oil is relatively new for soapmaking. Only two fatty acids account for 90% of its fatty-acid content and both of these are unsaturated. With nearly 80% oleic acid and 10% linoleic acid, hazelnut oil is one of the most highly unsaturated vegetable oils. When incorporating hazelnut oil into your soapmaking recipe, be sure to include more saturated fats and oils in the formula for more normal tracing times. With only 7% saturated fatty acids, hazelnut oil is slow to saponify. SAP value: 195.0.

Hemp Seed Oil Cannabis sativa
Hemp seeds produce a vegetable oil that is high in protein and can be used within a variety of foods and cosmetics. The hemp seed oil we offer you is considered "ultra natural", is minimally refined, and is obtained by cold, expeller-pressed method. It has a characteristic vegetable odor with a yellow to green color. The seeds from which this oil is obtained are not sterilized or fumigated. Hemp seed oil’s high linoleic and linolenic acid contents make it vulnerable to spoilage. Alpha linolenic, linoleic and oleic acids––the essential fatty acids known as the omegas––make up 88% of the total fatty-acid content. It is particularly moisturizing for dry, damaged skin and for eczema and psoriasis. SAP value: 192.8

Jojoba Simmondsia chinensis
Jojoba is very similar in composition to human natural skin oils. It penetrates the skin rapidly to nourish it; also softens and moisturizes mature and dry skin. Jojoba helps to heal inflamed skin conditions such as psoriasis or any form of dermatitis, helps control acne and oily scalps. Since it has antioxidant properties, it can keep other oils from going rancid. SAP value: 97.5

Kapok Seed Oil

Kukui Nut Oil Aleurites moluccana
Kukui nut oil, brought to Hawaii by early Polynesian settlers, is quickly absorbed into the skin. Kukui nut oil is high in linoleic and linolenic essential fatty acids. Excellent for skin conditioning after sun exposure, as well as for acne, eczema, psoriasis, hemorrhoids, dry/wrinkled skin and offers good protection for outdoor sports. It offers just the right amount of lubrication without leaving a greasy feeling. Excellent for chapped skin and may prevent scarring. Use in a 10%-15% dilution. For soapmaking, even 1-2/3 tablespoons added to 5 lbs. of soap just before incorporating the essential oils adds richness to the soap. A higher percentage, 10-20% of the total fats and oils, makes an outstanding soap. SAP value: 190.0.

Macadamia Nut Oil Macadamia integrifolia
This tree is native to Australia. Also known as Queensland nut oil, this cold pressed oil is high in palmitoleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid that acts as an antioxidant, preventing deterioration of cell membranes. For mature skin it is hydrating and gentle. It is a skin lubricant and is easily absorbed by the skin, sometimes described as a "vanishing oil." Helpful in cases of sunburn and wound healing. This oil has a long shelf life and good resistance to rancidity. It also has a mild laxative action. Macadamia nut oil contains about 80% monounsaturated fatty acids and a higher percentage of palmitoleic acid than other vegetable oils. Palmitoleic acid does not occur in any other plant oil. SAP value: 195.0.

Mango Oil
Mango Oil is a popular moisturizer. It is used in creams, lotions and hair products. Mango oil can also be used in soap making.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil Limnanthes Alba
Meadowfoam seed oil is similar to rapeseed oil. It is primarily used in cosmetic and haircare products.

Mustard Oil
This fixed oil has a strong, hot, nutty taste. It is used in cooking in areas of India and Bangledesh but is not considered edible in USA and Europe. It is also used in some Indian Massage techniques.

Neem Oil
Neem oil is used widely in India and Africa as an anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-fungal, antiseptic, and anti-parasitic agent in toiletries, soap, toothpaste and skin/hair care products. It is used to treat skin disorders such as eczema, psoriasis, ringworm, scabies, syphilitic sores, and chicken pox. Neem oil can be used to get rid of lice and control dandruff. In toothpaste it helps relieve swollen and bleeding gums and kills the bacteria that cause gingivitis. Neem powder can be used in a foot bath powder to kill fungus and bacteria. Add neem oil to liquid soap base for an anti-bacterial hand soap. Use it in bug repellent lotion bars to keep the bugs away. Use it in pet soaps to kill and repel fleas. Neem oil can be emulsified with liquid soap and then sprayed on plants to keep insects from devouring the leaves.

Okra Seed Oil Hibiscus Esulentas
Okra seed oil is used in food manufacture.

Olive Oil-Grade A Olea europaea
Refined olive oil grade A is slightly green owing to the retention of trace amounts of chlorophyll––the green coloring matter of plants. Like avocado oil, olive oil is prone to solidify when cold. Olive oil has the properties of being calming, demulcent and emollient and can be used pure or in blends for burns, sprains, bruises, insect bites, to relieve itchy skin, and to massage the gums of those suffering from pyorrhoea (periodontal disease). After the olives go through the first pressing which produces extra virgin and virgin grades, water is then mixed with the pulp which is pressed again to produce oil of second quality such as Grade A. This is a very good oil for creating blends & infusing herbs and many soapmakers use this grade instead of pomace (which is the lowest grade). This is a healthy and perfectly acceptable food product. SAP value: 189.7. INCI: Olea Europaea

Extra Virgin Olive Oil Olea europaea
Extra virgin olive oil is extracted from olives by mechanical or other methods which do not modify its basic properties. This results in a completely natural product which maintains the taste plus chemical and biological characteristics of the olive. Once the flesh of the olives are pressed, the resulting oil is centrifuged and filtered for clarity. The first potion of oil is known as virgin oil and the oil obtained at the very beginning of this pressing is known as extra virgin oil or first pressing. The fruits yield about 18-20% oil and it is relatively expensive. Olive oil has traditionally been taken with lemon juice in 5ml doses to treat gallstones. There are indications that olive oil lowers the blood pressure more than other highly publicized polyunsaturated oils. It appears that olive oil lowers the amount of LDL cholesterol in the body and perhaps high cholesterol levels may be reduced more by ingesting olive oil than by following a fatless diet. Olive oil is recommended as part of a diabetic diet. Extra virgin olive oil is nutritious and easy to digest. It is often used in salads and is ideal for low temperature cooking as it does not smoke under 200C, although the flavor begins to change at 140C. It has been found by some that dandruff is made worse if olive oil is applied to a dry scalp. SAP value: 189.7. INCI: Olea Europaea

Palm Oil Elaeis guinnesis
Palm oil is produced from the pulp or flesh of the fruit of the oil palm. Palm oil contains an equal proportion of unsaturated acids, containing about 40% oleic acids (monounsaturated), 44% palmitic acids and oleic acids, which are also the major fatty acids produced by the body. It is a natural source of Vitamin E, the tocopherols, and tocotrienols and is also a very rich source of beta-carotene, an important source of Vitamin A. Palm oil is physically and chemically different from either palm kernel or coconut oil and should not be considered similar to these oils. Palm oil also contains a much higher proportion of palmitic acids than other fats and oils.
Palm oil makes a nice hard bar when used in combination with other oils such as coconut and olive oil. It is less water soluble and resists melting; it saponifies easily and pulls other oils into saponification quicker. It is also known as vegetable tallow and adds firmness to bar soaps, giving a pale white-yellow color. Palm oil will speed up the soapmaking process. Because the palm oil mixture is more reactive, you must add the essential oils and the nutrients swiftly or the soap will begin to set prematurely. Our palm oil is refined, food grade palm oil. SAP value: 199.1.

Palm Kernel 107°Elaeis guineensis
This oil is obtained from the kernels, taken from the cracked nuts of the palm. This oil contains large proportions of lauric acid, its chemical composition is quite different from that of palm oil, and is used chiefly for soap making. Palm kernel oil is a lauric type, similar to coconut oil and produces hard soaps that lather well in all kinds of water. Soaps made with palm kernel oil are white, very hard, and lather beautifully; 10-30% is plenty when combined with other vegetable oils. This small percentage also keeps the final bars from developing an odor characteristic of the palm kernel oil. Like coconut oil, palm kernel can have a drying effect when used in excess, yet is moisturizing when used in moderation. SAP value: 219.9

Peanut Oil
This oil is used in cooking. It was also the original source of fuel for the diesel engine.

Pecan Oil
This oil is mostly used in cooking but has also been used as a massage oil. This oil has about half the saturated fat content of olive oil, corn oil, and peanut oil.

Perilla Seed Oil
Mainly used in the paint and varnish industry.

Pine Nut Oil
This oil is mainly used to add flavor after cooking. It is not suitable for cooking.

Pistachio Oil Pistacia vera
A strong flavored oil used in both foods and skin care products

Poppyseed Oil Papaver somniferumin
This oil is used in both cooking and as a moisturizer but it’s main use is in the manufacture of paints, varnishes, and soaps.

Black Raspberry Oil.
Black raspberry oil is rich in antioxidants and phytonutrients. This oil absorbs quickly into the skin. Black raspberry oil is used in face creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair care products among others.

Rosehip Seed Oil(organic) Rosa mosqueta, rubignosa, rubirosa, canina
Rosa mosqueta grows wild in the southern Andes (Chile) as well as other parts of the world. The amber seeds inside the hips contain an oil high in essential fatty acids, GLA, and vitamin C. The cold-pressed oil contains between 30% and 40% gamma linoleic acid (GLA) which has valuable uses in treating skin problems such as eczema and psoriasis. Can be used as a carrier oil with very small amounts of essential oils added, as a massage oil, or added to other vegetable/nut oils as part of a blend. This oil reduces scarring, heals burns, and softens scars and keloids. It can help diminish broken capillaries, but may also aggravate acne or blemished skin. The application of rosa mosqueta oil produced rapid healing of the inflammation, darkening and dermatitis caused by radiation. This is the best antiaging oil to use in skin care. However, it may turn rancid quickly and should be stored in a cool place or refrigerated. Our rosehip oil is extra virgin and cold pressed. The oil is a golden reddish color (which will vary from batch to batch) due to the carotenoids in the hips; it is produced from the fruits or berries of wild bushes. As with all natural products from plants, the color and aroma of this oil may change from batch to batch. SAP value: 193.0.

Safflower Oil
Safflower oil is flavorless and colorless, and nutrionally similar to sunflower oil. It is used mainly as a salad dressing, as a cooking oil and in margarine production.

Sesame Oil Sesamum indicum
This oil is rich in vitamins and minerals. Its vitamin E content gives the oil excellent stability. Some of its recommended uses are for psoriasis, eczema, arthritis, and as a skin softener. It’’s an oil which is gaining a lot of popularity as a tanning oil. It’s recommended that this oil be used as a base or in a 10%-15% dilution. It’s beneficial for rheumatic and skin conditions, psoriasis, dry eczema and broken veins.
Sesame oil, like avocado oil and shea butter, contains a high percentage of unsaponifiables (those parts of fats and oils that do not react with sodium hydroxide to form soap and remain in the final bars as conditioning plant nutrients). Sesame oil is used in creams and soaps for its moisturizing qualities. Some subscribe to the theory that three of its unsaponifiable substances– sesamoline, sesamine, and sesamol––have powerful antioxidant properties that resist rancidity. With high percentages of oleic and linoleic fatty acids, a sesame oil soap formula should incorporate coconut oil and palm oil for a quicker saponification and a harder bar. Saponification value: 187.9. INCI: Sesamum indicum

Shea Butter Butyrospermum parkii
Shea butter is also called African Karité butter. This refined butter is expressed from the pits of the fruit of the African butter tree. It is smooth, creamy and white. Our shea butter is cold expeller pressed and carbon treated to remove the impurities. It is not solvent extracted, but mechanically extracted. There are no impurities whatsoever. Shea is extremely moisturizing and gentle to the skin. In soaps, it gives a very luxurious feel to the finished product. It can also be added to creams and lotions or used alone for massage or skin cream. Shea butter is remarkably high in unsaponifiables, up to 11%, making it a superfatting material for soapmaking. To use in soapmaking (2-5% of your total fats and oils) melt the shea butter with the other solid fat. To superfat with shea butter add 1-2/3 tablespoons per 5 pounds of soap, melted and cooled to approximately 75°F (24°C) just before adding the scent. SAP value: 180.0

Soyabean Oil
The most used fixed oilseed in the world. Used primarily in edible oil products such as salad dressings and margarines
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Sunflower Oil Helianthus annuus
Sunflower oil has a light texture and is pleasant to use. It contains vitamins A, C, D, and E, a high linoleic acid content, and few saturated fatty acids. This oil is easily absorbed and can be used on all skin types. Its high vitamin E content makes it especially helpful for delicate and dry skin. It has a protective effect on the skin and is healing when applied to leg ulcers, bruises and skin diseases. Many soapmakers use sunflower oil as a less expensive alternative to olive oil. When using sunflower oil in soapmaking, be sure to include other more saturated fats and oils for a quicker saponification and, in the case of superfatted soap, a longer shelf life. Limit sunflower oil to 10-15% of your total fats and oils. SAP value: 188.7.

Tung Oil
This oil is used as a finishing product on porous surfaces such as marble, granite, stone and wood. It leaves a wetted-look finish.

Vernonia Oil Vernonia galamensis
This oil is also known as ironwood oil. It is used in varnishes, paints, and adhesives.

Walnut Oil:
Walnut oil (Juglans regia): Very unsaturated, walnut oil presents good moisturizing, anti-aging, regenerative, emollient and toning properties. This oil is obtained from walnut kernels by cold expression and subsequent refining. Walnuts are unique among nuts because the essential fat they contain is primarily polyunsaturated (the source of omega-3 fatty acids.). Walnuts contain a host of other important vitamins and minerals. Walnut oil is a clear, greaseless, penetrating oil, that is a rich source of fatty acids essential to maintaining the skin's cellular integrity. Walnut oil is not a cooking oil; high heat destroys its delicate flavor. Where it does shine is as an ingredient in a salad dressing or a fresh pasta sauce. It can be used in any cosmetic product as an active principal or as a carrier in the oily phase, without any proportion limit. Shelf life if refrigerated: at least 6 months. SAP: 189-198 INCI: Walnut (Juglans regia) oil.

Wheat Germ Oil Triticum spp.
This oil is thick, sticky and antioxidant. It’s also very rich in vitamin E, a natural antioxidant. Based on this, it can be added to other carrier oil sot act as a preservative. Wheat germ oil can be used to nourish dry or cracked skin and soothes skin problems such as eczema and psoriasis; also helps to prevent and reduce scarring and may prevent stretch marks. Mature skin, in particular, will benefit from wheat germ oil. It’s also known to be beneficial for tired muscles, making a good base for after sport massage. Some people use it as a preservative in vegetable oils, soaps and toiletries, and others totally disagree as to its preservative powers. People allergic to wheat flour may have reactions to wheat germ oil. Refrigeration’s recommended. SAP value: 185.0.
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The highest proportion of fixed oils come from seeds, the most popular being the soybean oil. For statistics on oilseeds go to http://www.fediol.be/2/main1.php where you can see comparison oilseed production graphs.

If you are really technically minded, check out this chemistry link on fixed oil
http://www.plantoils.in/chem/chem.html